Monday, August 23, 2010
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
This and That :)
This morning as I was walking toward town, I heard the men ringing the bells as they were delivering gasolina in tanks to various homes. A few steps later, men were delivering the big bottled water. The air was fresh and the ambiance quite pleasant as I walked down the pebbled streets, saying, "Buenos Dias," to those I met. I heard the now familiar tapping of the wooden looms which I had previously thought was someone hammering. I looked up and saw a beautiful yellow bird staring down at me. This is the MX. I love.
The thought occurred to me that one must really step in another's steps to understand them. Going to MX., lying on the beach is great fun and relaxing. I'm all for it. However, it isn't the true MX. It is the tourist MX., which is the only MX. many tourists want to know. My type of Mexico, allows me to know the people and feel a part of the neighborhood. A lady who weaves at her window each night now recognizes me as I'm walking home. I stop and we exchange greetings. If I had more time here I'm sure I would get to know her better.
The human race has so many misunderstandings of our fellow man, due to not knowing their culture. I even believe there are still many differences in culture between many in the northern and southern United States. For example, recently I attended a womans' event in my small hometown of Clarksville. I now know that the woman I was trying to befriend saw me as nosey, too curious, and intruding into her personal space. Honestly, those were not my intentions. I had never dreamed that when I asked her how long she had lived in the area, where she lived, if she enjoyed it, etc..trying to make conversation, she would say, "You are certainly asking a lot of questions. Why are you so interested?" Man, I wanted to shrink through the floor. Now, I realize that what I had thought of as being friendly and trying to get to know someone was seen by her as being obtrusive and nosey. I now think twice before asking those questions. In a way, that is sad to me because my intentions truly were good. Had I walked in her shoes or she in mine, we would have known each other's customs. Hopefully she would have known I was trying to be friendly. I have now learned I need to tone down the questions, especially while visiting in the northern states. Anyway, to me this is a small example of why we are so polarized in this country. We haven't walked in another's shoes. We haven't travelled enough or stayed in a place foreign to us for long enough to truly learn the costumes. This is why I want to step out of the box and to feel more a part of a place, to make my own decisions based on my accumulated experiences.
Well, enough of that...:) Do you remember my stating that some of my most phenmonenal times here were by chance? Today was another example of that. My sister, Abby, and I decided to take a different street home. We stopped by a little shop. While visiting with the lady there, she told me she had classes on painting alejebres, the beautifully painted carved animals, for which Oaxaca is famous. I love those alejebres and now have a small collection. :) However, I never dreamed of having the chance to be instructed in painting them myself ,nor had I heard of classes for painting them. There have been no signs, nothing in the guide books, no word of mouth notices, etc....This would not have happened had we not stopped in that shop and the woman and I had not started talking. Sometimes it is good to talk to people, not be in a rush, and enjoy life. That's what happens here, except for the buses, taxis, and cars which seem to be in the Daytona. I may be able to stop asking quite as many questions, but I won't ever stop noticing the small things and talking to people. My life is so much more enriched because of it.
Tomorrow Abby will take a cooking class. Those of you who know me best, know I won't be doing that. : ) I will paint my alejebre. More on that later. :) Hasta Luego, Bebes! :) Joy
The thought occurred to me that one must really step in another's steps to understand them. Going to MX., lying on the beach is great fun and relaxing. I'm all for it. However, it isn't the true MX. It is the tourist MX., which is the only MX. many tourists want to know. My type of Mexico, allows me to know the people and feel a part of the neighborhood. A lady who weaves at her window each night now recognizes me as I'm walking home. I stop and we exchange greetings. If I had more time here I'm sure I would get to know her better.
The human race has so many misunderstandings of our fellow man, due to not knowing their culture. I even believe there are still many differences in culture between many in the northern and southern United States. For example, recently I attended a womans' event in my small hometown of Clarksville. I now know that the woman I was trying to befriend saw me as nosey, too curious, and intruding into her personal space. Honestly, those were not my intentions. I had never dreamed that when I asked her how long she had lived in the area, where she lived, if she enjoyed it, etc..trying to make conversation, she would say, "You are certainly asking a lot of questions. Why are you so interested?" Man, I wanted to shrink through the floor. Now, I realize that what I had thought of as being friendly and trying to get to know someone was seen by her as being obtrusive and nosey. I now think twice before asking those questions. In a way, that is sad to me because my intentions truly were good. Had I walked in her shoes or she in mine, we would have known each other's customs. Hopefully she would have known I was trying to be friendly. I have now learned I need to tone down the questions, especially while visiting in the northern states. Anyway, to me this is a small example of why we are so polarized in this country. We haven't walked in another's shoes. We haven't travelled enough or stayed in a place foreign to us for long enough to truly learn the costumes. This is why I want to step out of the box and to feel more a part of a place, to make my own decisions based on my accumulated experiences.
Well, enough of that...:) Do you remember my stating that some of my most phenmonenal times here were by chance? Today was another example of that. My sister, Abby, and I decided to take a different street home. We stopped by a little shop. While visiting with the lady there, she told me she had classes on painting alejebres, the beautifully painted carved animals, for which Oaxaca is famous. I love those alejebres and now have a small collection. :) However, I never dreamed of having the chance to be instructed in painting them myself ,nor had I heard of classes for painting them. There have been no signs, nothing in the guide books, no word of mouth notices, etc....This would not have happened had we not stopped in that shop and the woman and I had not started talking. Sometimes it is good to talk to people, not be in a rush, and enjoy life. That's what happens here, except for the buses, taxis, and cars which seem to be in the Daytona. I may be able to stop asking quite as many questions, but I won't ever stop noticing the small things and talking to people. My life is so much more enriched because of it.
Tomorrow Abby will take a cooking class. Those of you who know me best, know I won't be doing that. : ) I will paint my alejebre. More on that later. :) Hasta Luego, Bebes! :) Joy
Sunday, August 15, 2010
To Market, To Market, to buy a fat pig, goat, turkey, chicken, sheep :)
Hola Amigos!
Three more conitnuous days of adventure here:
Fri.: Ocotlan: another pueblo outside of Oaxaca....This was a beautiful spot. Can't wait to get the cable to my camera when I return so that I can post pics! There was a beautiful church there, a beautiful park, and an extensive market where one could buy anything, and I mean anything.....Women were walking around with turkeys and chickens under their arms. Men were pulling very stubborn goats, sitting on their haunches, who obviously knew their fate. All kinds of breads, fruits, nuts, herbs, plants, vegies, etc....were being sold, some which I have never seen. The breads of MX. are scrumptious! We bought some and sat down to observe the people passing by.
Many people were members of one of the numerous branches of the Zapotec tribe. I am not knowledgable enough to impart what types of dress were used by which tribes of women. They were all very interesting and very unique and beautiful in their own way. Many women had very long hair, often waistlength or longer, done in braids, with beautiful colored ribbons of various colors interwoven the entire length of the braid. Some had goregous, brightly colored scarves over their braids, while others wrapped their braids with the beautiful ribbons, in a circle around the top of their heads. Many wore beautifully embroidered aprons over their dresses. Many balanced sacks and baskets of flowers, fruit, whatever...over their heads. Nearly all had shawls in which they carried their babies. I have always thought it looked so cool and easy, the way that wrap it. The babies seem quite comfortable and it appears to be quite sturdy. However, it is a mystery to me as to how they do it.
I bought a tepate, a small wool rug. All natural dies are used. Mine is a brilliant green which was obtained from alfalfa. It also has road runners with colors made from wine, indigo, and various other natural sources.
After Ocotlan, we visited another nearby pueblo, Santo Tomas de Jalieza. There the women are known for their beautiful weaving of cotton products, done in a back-strapping technique, with small looms on their backs. There were purses, belts, jackets, tablecloths, bedspreads, etc...all beautifully done. The people were very friendly. I only purchased small items there, a small coin purse and a thin belt, all beautifully woven.
Fri. evening: Tristan and I went to our favorite little neighborhood restaurant, which is a patio with a thatched roof. Again, another serendipitous event! :) There was a group of seven mariachis, serenading two young couples. The six of us were the only ones there. The owner said it was quite alright for us to join them. He knew us because we have frequented his place while here. Anyway, I was so glad Tristan got to see them. I have seen several groups in the past, but we really hadn't seen any here. Turns out it was in celebration of one of the young men's birthday. The music was great, people were having fun, it was very enjoyable, free entertainment. Tristan remarked, " You know, people here just enjoy life, don't they! " Now that, my friends, made my trip to MX.! I love to share MX. with my friends and family so that they can see MX. and make their own decisions. :)
Sat.: We went to the market near our neighborhood. Authentic Mexican markets are always fun. One never knows what might be encountered. We ended up with some delicious tamales, bread, and even a form of Mexican pizza, all which we really enjoyed. We also purchased hydroponically -grown lettuce and various other greens there. I have always said that some of my most enjoyable times in MX. are the unplanned ones, ones where you get a bit off the beaten track and discover something quite special. This was what happened as we were meandering our way home. I heard a tap, tap, tap....Thinking it was someone taking tap lessons or someone hammering, I didn't give it much thought. Then, I noticed some men with a huge loom of sorts and lots of threads of cotton. Across the cobble-stoned street was another man sitting at a loom, pushing it back and forth. Of course I was my usual snoopy self. :) I was peering in, when a man around 60, asked me if I would like to see his taller-factory. Por supesto! :) I and those with me were treated to a tour and also given a private showing of his store where there were many of the same beautiful woven cotton items I had seen in Santo Tomas. The tapping was the man working the hand-powered, old wooden, loom. The men across the street were preparing the threads of cotton for a roll for the machine.
Sat. evening: I am glad we had a teenager in the house to keep us a bit more active. We all decided to head toward the zocolo, which is always fun on a Sat. night. It always brings to mind how unattractively most of us Americans, certainly including myself, dress, compared to the local communities. I didn't see one man in shorts. Most had neatly ironed and pressed cotton shirts. The women wore beautiful skirts and dresses. There was tons of activity as usual. Free concerts, children playing, vendors selling, sidewalk cafes....What was most fun for me was seeing people preparing for an exit of the bride and groom. They were getting married in front of the huge and beautiful Santo Domingo church. Outside was an antique white stretch limo with gorgeous white flowers in front and behind. I had seen this. What I had not previously seen were the huge paper mache figures, dressed as a bride and groom, again,...so creative and so fun! We didn't stick around to see, but I know that people walk under these figures. The paper mache bride was quite endowed. :)
Sun., today, will be another posting. Too much fun, too much to write. Adios Amigos!
Three more conitnuous days of adventure here:
Fri.: Ocotlan: another pueblo outside of Oaxaca....This was a beautiful spot. Can't wait to get the cable to my camera when I return so that I can post pics! There was a beautiful church there, a beautiful park, and an extensive market where one could buy anything, and I mean anything.....Women were walking around with turkeys and chickens under their arms. Men were pulling very stubborn goats, sitting on their haunches, who obviously knew their fate. All kinds of breads, fruits, nuts, herbs, plants, vegies, etc....were being sold, some which I have never seen. The breads of MX. are scrumptious! We bought some and sat down to observe the people passing by.
Many people were members of one of the numerous branches of the Zapotec tribe. I am not knowledgable enough to impart what types of dress were used by which tribes of women. They were all very interesting and very unique and beautiful in their own way. Many women had very long hair, often waistlength or longer, done in braids, with beautiful colored ribbons of various colors interwoven the entire length of the braid. Some had goregous, brightly colored scarves over their braids, while others wrapped their braids with the beautiful ribbons, in a circle around the top of their heads. Many wore beautifully embroidered aprons over their dresses. Many balanced sacks and baskets of flowers, fruit, whatever...over their heads. Nearly all had shawls in which they carried their babies. I have always thought it looked so cool and easy, the way that wrap it. The babies seem quite comfortable and it appears to be quite sturdy. However, it is a mystery to me as to how they do it.
I bought a tepate, a small wool rug. All natural dies are used. Mine is a brilliant green which was obtained from alfalfa. It also has road runners with colors made from wine, indigo, and various other natural sources.
After Ocotlan, we visited another nearby pueblo, Santo Tomas de Jalieza. There the women are known for their beautiful weaving of cotton products, done in a back-strapping technique, with small looms on their backs. There were purses, belts, jackets, tablecloths, bedspreads, etc...all beautifully done. The people were very friendly. I only purchased small items there, a small coin purse and a thin belt, all beautifully woven.
Fri. evening: Tristan and I went to our favorite little neighborhood restaurant, which is a patio with a thatched roof. Again, another serendipitous event! :) There was a group of seven mariachis, serenading two young couples. The six of us were the only ones there. The owner said it was quite alright for us to join them. He knew us because we have frequented his place while here. Anyway, I was so glad Tristan got to see them. I have seen several groups in the past, but we really hadn't seen any here. Turns out it was in celebration of one of the young men's birthday. The music was great, people were having fun, it was very enjoyable, free entertainment. Tristan remarked, " You know, people here just enjoy life, don't they! " Now that, my friends, made my trip to MX.! I love to share MX. with my friends and family so that they can see MX. and make their own decisions. :)
Sat.: We went to the market near our neighborhood. Authentic Mexican markets are always fun. One never knows what might be encountered. We ended up with some delicious tamales, bread, and even a form of Mexican pizza, all which we really enjoyed. We also purchased hydroponically -grown lettuce and various other greens there. I have always said that some of my most enjoyable times in MX. are the unplanned ones, ones where you get a bit off the beaten track and discover something quite special. This was what happened as we were meandering our way home. I heard a tap, tap, tap....Thinking it was someone taking tap lessons or someone hammering, I didn't give it much thought. Then, I noticed some men with a huge loom of sorts and lots of threads of cotton. Across the cobble-stoned street was another man sitting at a loom, pushing it back and forth. Of course I was my usual snoopy self. :) I was peering in, when a man around 60, asked me if I would like to see his taller-factory. Por supesto! :) I and those with me were treated to a tour and also given a private showing of his store where there were many of the same beautiful woven cotton items I had seen in Santo Tomas. The tapping was the man working the hand-powered, old wooden, loom. The men across the street were preparing the threads of cotton for a roll for the machine.
Sat. evening: I am glad we had a teenager in the house to keep us a bit more active. We all decided to head toward the zocolo, which is always fun on a Sat. night. It always brings to mind how unattractively most of us Americans, certainly including myself, dress, compared to the local communities. I didn't see one man in shorts. Most had neatly ironed and pressed cotton shirts. The women wore beautiful skirts and dresses. There was tons of activity as usual. Free concerts, children playing, vendors selling, sidewalk cafes....What was most fun for me was seeing people preparing for an exit of the bride and groom. They were getting married in front of the huge and beautiful Santo Domingo church. Outside was an antique white stretch limo with gorgeous white flowers in front and behind. I had seen this. What I had not previously seen were the huge paper mache figures, dressed as a bride and groom, again,...so creative and so fun! We didn't stick around to see, but I know that people walk under these figures. The paper mache bride was quite endowed. :)
Sun., today, will be another posting. Too much fun, too much to write. Adios Amigos!
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- Oaxaca, Mexico
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Friday, August 13, 2010
The Talented People of Mexico
Today I am thinking of the talent of Mexico. We are in the city of Oaxaca, MX. There are numerous pueblos close to the center, each offering their own type of art, whether it be in the form of pottery, textiles alejembres ( the colorful carved animals), clothing, jewelry, or home accessories.
The first pueblo we visited was San Bartolono de Cayotepec. They are known for their black pottery. We were told the hardest part of making it was finding the black clay in the river; however, to someone missing the artistic bone, it all appeared difficult. Que Lastima! :) We were treated to a demonstration of a woman and her mother making the pottery. It did look easy for them, the way they sculpted and chisled away. It came so easily to them, after a life-time of doing it. The prices were very modestly priced and very unique and pretty. There were not only pots but all kinds of figurines as well.
Another village we visited was the pueblo of Arrabozola, famous for their alejembres, the carved and painted animals. It was nearly as fun arriving there as it was visiting. We rode in moto taxis, really a motorcycle designed with a cart. I'm certain they wouldn't pass road inspection in the states, but it was worth living dangerously as our young drivers enjoyed having a bit of a race through the streets! :) Upon arrival, we ate some of the most delicious "tacos" I have ever seen. They were huge, more like burritos, but not fried. I had a chile relleno one and others in our party had nopales, ( cactus which is actually delicious).
I once read that each alejembre was desiged individually as the artist carved, using the wood's shape to determine the animal. The wood is that of the Copal tree, a softer wood to carve. In the states these alejembres are seen as art and sell for high prices. The animals are intricately painted with fine threads and many contain individual pieces such as tails, shells, wings, quills, etc...which can be removed for travel. Many are signed by a family member who carved it. How unique and beautiful each piece was and what pride was taken in designing each piece! My sister, Abby, bought me some earrings I admired. I bet not many of you have or would probably wear porcupine earrings, but that is exactly what I have and love! :) They are unique to say the least, little brightly colored wooden quills sticking out of the little porcupine bodies. How typically Mexicana and how typically me! LOL
Perhaps the most intriguing to me was the tin work in the pueblo of Xochiltlon. We saw a demonstration offered by a family there, who did the tin work. Before, when I had seen these, I thought they were cute. Now, I appreciate how much time and effort was put into each piece and how they were made. One person drew a design on the aluminum, another cut them, the third, and perhaps the most fascinating part to me, was the person who stamped them. He had every type hand tool one can imagine, small and large. With each hit of the nail head a design appeared, which culminated in the creation of many objects of beauty such as a butterfly, flower, angel, cat, flower, whatever he designed as he stamped. Then, the objects were painted with a paint which is weather resistant. They were brilliant colors similar to those used on cars. Mirrors, frames, Chrismas ornaments, refrigerator magnets, etc...were all beautifully done and the most reasonably priced objects I've seen.
We visited the pueblo of Atzompa, known for it's beautifully glazed green pottery. I prefer the unique designs, the very Mexicana ones, the swans, turtles, etc...Again, all were beautifully done and very modestly priced. However, this is the place where I purchased my recuerdo ( memory), from an artist named Enedina Vasquez Cruz, which was not a bargain but it was worth the value to me. She creates terracotta figures with Oaxacan religious and national themes. She is known for her two-tone colorations, achieved from using different clays. She colors the natural clay with tones made from a variety of other clays, some which have been used for years. Enedina has won acclaim in the world of ceramics, and personally does all her own work from start to finish. Therefore her figures are rare and very collectible. Currently she has a piece on display at a museum in San Antonio. We purchased a shepard, with fine detailing of his face, and numerous little goats and sheep. I consider it art and am very happy to have it.
Next, it was off to Monte Alban, the ruins and pyramids outside of Oaxaca. It was a perfect day, cool breeze, and an incredible view. What always impresses me with pyramids is knowing how ancient they truly are and how smart the people must have been to have created such cities without the use of modern day mechanical devices. It does bring you back in time. These were created many, many, many moons before our country was ever discovered.
Knowing we have dinner tonight at our landlords, we stopped at a flower shop. For less than $12, a young man created an arrangement I'm certain would sell for $50 in the states. We selected a vase and a few colorful gerber daisies and asked him to make an arrangement. After a short wait, he appeared with not only the flowers we selected but two additional roses of various colors, and beatiful foliage, where he had taken wide leaves and doubled them over, encircling the arrangement. It was another example in creativitiy and pride in work. Perhaps I'll put on my porcupine earrings and head upstairs for dinner! :) Hasta Luego! :)
The first pueblo we visited was San Bartolono de Cayotepec. They are known for their black pottery. We were told the hardest part of making it was finding the black clay in the river; however, to someone missing the artistic bone, it all appeared difficult. Que Lastima! :) We were treated to a demonstration of a woman and her mother making the pottery. It did look easy for them, the way they sculpted and chisled away. It came so easily to them, after a life-time of doing it. The prices were very modestly priced and very unique and pretty. There were not only pots but all kinds of figurines as well.
Another village we visited was the pueblo of Arrabozola, famous for their alejembres, the carved and painted animals. It was nearly as fun arriving there as it was visiting. We rode in moto taxis, really a motorcycle designed with a cart. I'm certain they wouldn't pass road inspection in the states, but it was worth living dangerously as our young drivers enjoyed having a bit of a race through the streets! :) Upon arrival, we ate some of the most delicious "tacos" I have ever seen. They were huge, more like burritos, but not fried. I had a chile relleno one and others in our party had nopales, ( cactus which is actually delicious).
I once read that each alejembre was desiged individually as the artist carved, using the wood's shape to determine the animal. The wood is that of the Copal tree, a softer wood to carve. In the states these alejembres are seen as art and sell for high prices. The animals are intricately painted with fine threads and many contain individual pieces such as tails, shells, wings, quills, etc...which can be removed for travel. Many are signed by a family member who carved it. How unique and beautiful each piece was and what pride was taken in designing each piece! My sister, Abby, bought me some earrings I admired. I bet not many of you have or would probably wear porcupine earrings, but that is exactly what I have and love! :) They are unique to say the least, little brightly colored wooden quills sticking out of the little porcupine bodies. How typically Mexicana and how typically me! LOL
Perhaps the most intriguing to me was the tin work in the pueblo of Xochiltlon. We saw a demonstration offered by a family there, who did the tin work. Before, when I had seen these, I thought they were cute. Now, I appreciate how much time and effort was put into each piece and how they were made. One person drew a design on the aluminum, another cut them, the third, and perhaps the most fascinating part to me, was the person who stamped them. He had every type hand tool one can imagine, small and large. With each hit of the nail head a design appeared, which culminated in the creation of many objects of beauty such as a butterfly, flower, angel, cat, flower, whatever he designed as he stamped. Then, the objects were painted with a paint which is weather resistant. They were brilliant colors similar to those used on cars. Mirrors, frames, Chrismas ornaments, refrigerator magnets, etc...were all beautifully done and the most reasonably priced objects I've seen.
We visited the pueblo of Atzompa, known for it's beautifully glazed green pottery. I prefer the unique designs, the very Mexicana ones, the swans, turtles, etc...Again, all were beautifully done and very modestly priced. However, this is the place where I purchased my recuerdo ( memory), from an artist named Enedina Vasquez Cruz, which was not a bargain but it was worth the value to me. She creates terracotta figures with Oaxacan religious and national themes. She is known for her two-tone colorations, achieved from using different clays. She colors the natural clay with tones made from a variety of other clays, some which have been used for years. Enedina has won acclaim in the world of ceramics, and personally does all her own work from start to finish. Therefore her figures are rare and very collectible. Currently she has a piece on display at a museum in San Antonio. We purchased a shepard, with fine detailing of his face, and numerous little goats and sheep. I consider it art and am very happy to have it.
Next, it was off to Monte Alban, the ruins and pyramids outside of Oaxaca. It was a perfect day, cool breeze, and an incredible view. What always impresses me with pyramids is knowing how ancient they truly are and how smart the people must have been to have created such cities without the use of modern day mechanical devices. It does bring you back in time. These were created many, many, many moons before our country was ever discovered.
Knowing we have dinner tonight at our landlords, we stopped at a flower shop. For less than $12, a young man created an arrangement I'm certain would sell for $50 in the states. We selected a vase and a few colorful gerber daisies and asked him to make an arrangement. After a short wait, he appeared with not only the flowers we selected but two additional roses of various colors, and beatiful foliage, where he had taken wide leaves and doubled them over, encircling the arrangement. It was another example in creativitiy and pride in work. Perhaps I'll put on my porcupine earrings and head upstairs for dinner! :) Hasta Luego! :)
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